Boot and shoe



. v 1,563,498 P. G. KNoLl.

BOOT AND SHOE AilnumI iNvEN'l-ua l)atented Dec. l, 19725.

UNITED STATES PHILIP G. KNOLL, OF PORT COLBORNE, ONTARIO, CANADA.

BOOT AND SHOE.

Application led September 19, 1922. Serial No. 589,203.

To @ZZ 'whom it may concern Be it known that I, Prrrnrr G. KNoLL, of the town of Port Colborne, in the county of wWelland, Province of Ontario, Canada, a subject of the King of Great Britain, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Boots and Shoes, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates particularly to what are known as Goodyear welted shoes in which a welt is sewn to the upper and an insole, and an outsole in turn sewn to the welt. Such shoes are of superior quality but are expensive to last and my object is to devise means for materially decreasing the cost of lasting without impair-ing the quality of the product. I attain my object by providing the insole around its under edge with a lip, preferably integral, which lip, when the shoe is on the last, is by a stapling machine secured to the upper.

The insole is then sewn to the welt by the usual rapid stitcher, after which the lip and edge of the upper are trimmed away between the line of staples and the line of stitching., The shoe is then ready for the outsole which may be secured in place in any ordinary manner.

The invention is hereinafter more fully described and is illustrated in the accompanying drawings in which- Fig. l is a plan view of the under side of my improved insole;

Fig. 2 a cross section of the same;

Fig. 8 a cross section of a modification;

Fig. 4 a cross section of a further modification;

Fig. 5 a cross section of an upper and insole lasted and stapled;

Fig. 6 a cross section of the upper and insole lasted, stapled, welted and sewn; and

Fig. 7 a similar view with the edges of the upper and the lip of the insole trimmed off ready for the attachment of the outer sole.

In the drawings like numerals of reference indicate corresponding parts in the different figures.

l is an insole, which is provided with the channel 2 such as is usual in insoles used in Goodyear welted shoes. In addition to the channel, the insole is provided with a lip 3 extending round its under edge. This lip is preferably integrally formed Aand is provided with notches tat the heel and toe to facilitate its being turned down as shown.

It is, however, possible with childrens shoes to form the lip by securing a thin piece 5 of canvas or leather to the insole as shown in Fig. 3, in which case the channel 2 is omitted.

A further modification is shown in Fig. l in which a strip 6 of leather or canvas is sewn round each edge of the insole, thus forming both a lip and a channel.

In making a shoe according to my process, I secure an insole constructed as her-einbefore referred to to the bottom of a last. An upper is then drawn over the last with its edges against the lip. By means of an crdinary staple laster, the upper and thelip are secured together as shown in Fig. 5. rlhis operation draws the upper tightly over the last, and also draws it tightly to the insole and saves the troublesome and expensive operations of pulling and tacking which are necessary in the ordinary Goodyear welt process.

After the shoe comes from the stapling machine, it passes to the well known rapid stitcher, which positions the welt 8 and sews the welt, upper and insole together, this stitching being through the channel 2, if a channel is employed, or directly through the sole if no channel is employed as is possible with relatively light insoles.

It is found that by so constructing the insole and by making the shoe in the manner hereinbefore described a very material saving in the cost of manufacture results.

l/Vhat I claim as my invention fis:-

In a process of manufacturing shoes, the steps which consist in forming an insole with the usual channel and with a lip extending round and close to its under edge and projecting well below the under surface of the insole; positioning the insole on a last; drawing an upper over the last with its edge against the lip and at the same time stapling the upper and lip together well below the under surface of the insole thus avoiding the use of temporary fastenings; sewing a Goodyear welt in place by stitching through the channel lip and edges of the upper above the staples; and then trimming off the upper and lip between the line of staples and the line of stitching close to the under surface of the insole.

Signed at Pt. Colborne this 2 day of August 1922.

PHILIP G. KNOLL. 

